Drawers and False Floor

Three reasons to build this setup:

To solve the problem of storing essential items in the vehicle while keeping them hidden from view.
To allow access to recovery gear or a coffee kit without dismantling all the tied-down equipment.
To enjoy working with metal and welding, wood and carpentry, carpet gluing, aluminum cutting, and strength calculations.

The frame is made of 20mm black iron angles, and the supporting columns are 20mm square-section black iron. The lower frame is the size of the trunk floor, while the upper frame is shorter to fit the slope of the rear seat. The entire frame was welded and painted with two layers of smooth black hammerite.

The slides are manufactured by a Dutch company called Thomas Regout, featuring ball bearings along their length. They are designed to hold up to 100kg and extend in three stages to a length of 70 cm. The distance between the support columns was determined by the original holes in the slides. To ensure the inner slides are at the same height, I welded special brackets instead of using the original holes. The slides were purchased from A-R Marketing.

The drawers are made of 18mm plywood for the sides and bottom, with a 10mm plywood front. The front panel is covered with a 2.5mm aluminum sheet to reinforce it and support the locking mechanism. The false floor is made of 10mm plywood and also covered with aluminum but in a 2mm thickness. All screws in the aluminum are countersunk Allen screws to prevent sharp edges. Naturally, the aluminum texture between both drawers is continuous and aligned...

At the four top corners of the frame, I welded mounting ears. These are connected to tensioners that anchor the setup to the floor. The tensioners are angled to prevent movement in all directions. The anchor points were drilled into the floor and reinforced with an aluminum plate due to a lack of original anchor points. The anchoring system consists of safety carabiners on each end and an M8 cable tensioner for final tightening. Chain rings ensure that most of the tension is applied when the tensioner is at mid-stroke.

The plastic piece embedded in the trunk floor rubber, which serves as a mount for the original folding passenger seat, was relocated to be directly under the central bar of the frame. This supports the bar, which bears the most load. The rubber piece that was cut was repositioned in its original location.

The drawer does not utilize the full extension of the slide. This is to preserve the slide's dampers and, more importantly, to prevent impact on the slide bolts. The rear wall of each drawer is 20mm higher than the other sides, acting as a wide-surface stopper (~55 cm). When the drawer is fully opened, this wall prevents objects from falling behind it. At the front of the floor, I glued a strip cut from the original carpet so that when fully closed, it acts as a shock absorber, prevents dust from entering the drawer, and matches the original interior color.

On the top edge of the front panel, I glued a 10mm aluminum profile for aesthetics and to protect the wood from heavy objects moving in and out of the drawer.

I cut the lock hole using a jigsaw. It's important to use a blade specifically designed for aluminum, making the process much easier and more precise. Larger cuts were made at a carpentry workshop according to measurements. Trying to cut plywood with a jigsaw turned out to be quite destructive. The lock, made by Eberhard, is secured with four stainless steel M5 screws and high-quality wood glue. Once the glue dries, it becomes stronger than the surrounding wood. Stainless steel was chosen due to the screw size and their purpose.

On the floor, anchor tracks from the aviation industry are attached. The securing bolts pass through them, through the textured aluminum, through the wood, and directly into the iron frame. These tracks allow for the attachment of original tie-down accessories rated for approximately 500 kg. The anchor tracks, as well as other metal fittings, can be obtained from Noa Hardware.

The drawers are lined inside with a rough carpet to reduce noise and protect the wood. The external sides were coated with a thick lacquer to protect the wood from moisture. The gaps at the two front corners were sealed with galvanized metal to prevent rust, and these were covered with the vehicle’s original carpet for a uniform appearance.

The drawers resemble a setup presented by Oren here on Jeepolog, as we designed it together, and I had the pleasure of welding both frames.

Rule #1 in work: Measure twice, cut once.
Rule #2 in work: Stop before cutting and measure again.